défense des vins naturels, is permitted, although there has been (and still is) controversy over this indication22 . The expression 'natural wine', in fact, is in some respects misleading, for two (paradoxically antithetical) reasons: on the one hand, wine, being the fruit of the fermentation of must by micro-organisms, could by definition be considered a natural product; on the other hand, without the intervention of Man, fermented must tends to acetify, so that wine, from this point of view, would never be a natural product. However, while consumer knowledge of organic wine is sufficiently broad, 'natural wine' is still less well known than biodynamic wine23 . Moreover, even among those who are familiar with the concept of natural wine, there is a tendency towards radicalization, so that there is no direct proportionality between the level of wine knowledge and consumption24 , in contrast to biodynamic wine, although consumers of natural wines appear willing to pay a higher price25 . In any case, it is clear that certification, whether public (such as for organic wine) or private (for biodynamic wines and natural wines) can contribute to the information profile; however, at least for organic wines, there is not necessarily an improvement in the actual information, i.e. linked to a deeper knowledge of the product. To put it another way: for organic wine, labelling lends itself easily to being used for marketing purposes, addressing a broader public that also includes subjects who do not have a deeper knowledge of wine; for organic and natural wine, on the other hand, the greater degree of awareness of the target consumers means that marketing potentially plays a lesser role. 22 P. ALONSO GONZÁLEZ, E. PARGA DANS, R. FUENTES FERNÁNDEZ, Certification of natural wine: policy controversies and future prospects, in Frontiers in Sustainable Food Systems, 2022, 6: 875427. 23 P. ALONZO GONZÁLEZ, E. PARGA-DANS, Natural wine: do consumers know what it is, and how natural it really is? in Journal of Cleaner Production, 2020, 251: 119635. 24 R. VECCHIO et al. Why consumers drink natural wine? Consumer perception and information about natural wine in Agricultural and Food Economics, 2021, 9.1: 1-16. 25 A. GALATI et al. 'Natural wine' consumers and interest in label information: An analysis of willingness to pay in a new Italian wine market segment, in Journal of Cleaner Production, 2019, 227: 405-413.
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